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We tried a new restaurant, and it was extraordinary. I gave it four stars. One entire wall was a giant television screen — the football players on it were larger than life. It was as if you were on the field with them. Every second, I kept expecting one of them to lean over the table and say “Hey, if you’re not gonna eat that, can I have it?” Of course, I’m kidding. The sound was off. If all the 30 or 40 other 50-inch TVs hanging on the other walls had the sound on, how would people hear their cellphones ring? How would they...